26 March 2021

Back to the textile culture: STOP THE IGNORANCE

Local commerce has gone through major changes within the last few years, mirroring its modifications in the evolution of social interactions and dynamics. Concerning money, it goes without saying that the quality-life standards, together with daily stress issues, led people to egoistically act different in the money-worth: fair enough, most people correctly egoistically choose self-well-being, instead of what is getting to be considered now “overrated or harmful”.


Why? Most of us, especially through the last years, had to fac e multiple vital choices. The last 20 years’ family incomings kept on the same level, whereas daily life increased its costs permanently, leading to, especially with the “euro era”, surely not complimenting the whole process, a harsh quality of life. I feel quite sure that you at least once thought “I would rather go out for a brunch instead of getting myself a new coat “or “I would rather spend that amount of money on a family vacation instead of in a designer piece”. All in all, if prior, feeling good had a connection with “dressing good”, today it’s all about “self-love”, evoked by the tranquility of seaside or mountain traveling, meeting friends, going for a party, enjoying the family and most of all, smiling and laughing. How could we not agree? We can’t in fact.


The crisis in textile/fashion/clothing sector has actually not that much to do with daily choices of life. Textile industry must be guilted for it. We all, as workers are guilty of accepting any condition posed, with never fighting. Overfilled wardrobes, together with the historical period that we are facing, create the perfect mix not to want to fill them more. the horde of the e-commerce all the market had varied.  Once, going to our favorite store, boutique in the very center of our town, being talkative to the employers who were willing to advise you and conduct you through the shopping experience, among try-ons, was a joy. Visiting Store fronts was and is part of my job, leading me to understand what the market requires and how to proceed with the sourcing every season.  Unluckily, those last-year visits, led me to questions:

how could a possible consumer be willing to buy in a certain store when all the storefronts are filled in with poor-quality pieces? Through the last few decades, the big producers, started lacking in quality to drop costs. With that being said, if at the beginning the benefits were assured, with the time, the run for the consumerism did saturate the market with scares products, breaking drown historical textile philosophy: textile factories rather import yarns that were previously the base of their work. Besides, competing with foreign produces, I personally define as disloyal, for the production chains they utilize and the material they eventually place on the market, resembles quite impossible. It feels nostalgic to me to remember about the old-schooled cotton, silk, and wool mills, especially the one in my town.


In all this consumerism mess, Brand splay a good role:  they started to rather invest in their image and merchandising, then in actual quality of their products. I found myself arguing quite often for the latter reasons, for little expenditures in meters and on low-end andimported products. The price of the product is now imposed and has no link to the actual quality nor to its tailoring. It contrariwise relies on the label, on the image, and on the message that the company wants to give to the final consumer. AS A MATTER OF FACT, WE CONQUER THE DEATH Of out Italian Textile field.


Can we keep this from happening? Possibly, at least we must try. We all must.  the Italian textile industry has been the flagship of our nation all over the world, it is part of our history, of our being, of our culture. We all must step back to the origins, returning to our grandparents’’ ideologies and beliefs. Brand s must restart seeking for qualitative pieces, textiles with a real base, understanding the whole process behind very seasonal collection and being prepositive in the presentation of their products.  The Italian production must be safeguard, in the full respect of the timing for a collection production, and its show, in order not to undergo issues with others taking profit from our work.  Price must be the last focus, whereas the former one MUST be the taste, the quality, the construction, the raw materials implied. manufacturers, as well as contractors, must invest their efforts in professional and qualified personnel, paying attention to the world around them.


Last but not the least, Schools must return to real origins, preparing youths, giving them certainties and a true qualification, teaching discipline, love sacrifice and humility. Now instead, those who have now completed textile schools are children with so much presumption and a great deal of confusion in the head. I personally will keep fighting for the defense of the origin, for the joy of knowing that in that neighborhood shop I can find love, passion, research, sacrifices, smiles and the desire to qualitatively dress up.


Am I fool??? …perhaps, or maybe not that much…. S.B.

21 February 2021

Behind the perfect mask: what expert think of the lack in competent figures in textile companies

It goes without saying that a purposeful work requires awareness and knowledge. Aiming to this goal aid experts: “specialists about or skillful in a particular area”. The latter “should” be considered as the main source for a growing sector. Instead, at least Textile wise, it often happens that companies prefer relying in non-skilled, low-cost “manager” able to build the perfect priciest mask upon the worst products. A specific parallel and consequential question that we often pose ourselves is “why spending money in building the perfect façade when all you should do is build a valuable product?” If you want to eat an incredible Pizza, would you rather go to the best but priciest Italian restaurant looking like your grandma’s house or go to the MOST beautiful-looking Japanese low-cost sushi place that also makes pizza?


Stated that hiring proficient individuals requires a wide money outlay and an appropriate investment, we recognize that the path does not seem to be the most appealing solution or perhaps what consumers currently “need”. Is it certainly accurate though?

To put into facts what just declared: in recent times, especially with the COVID-19 pandemic, buyers are seeking for a greener lifestyle. As a matter of fact, multinationals started hiring “experts” that could possibly build collection and publicities to promote sustainable capsule. Useless to say that even though it is unquestionably true that this initiative is extremely purposeful for reaching a healthier approach to the planet, it is also undeniably veritable that the initiative is aged before even being Introduced.


“Why?” you might wonder… well, what is the point in building an advantageous campaign when eventually there was no proper, nor deep research on which textile quality should be rather used to really build qualitative and long-lasting products? green textile seems to result just like another brick in the consumerism wall. The decline in fabric knowledge in both employees and suppliers was then compensate by the profitable situation: completely discharging the competence of crafters, favorizing low-cost bad-quality products and, of course, money expenditure the perfect mask behind which to hide the quality lack. The result is saturation and disappearance of qualitative materials, and skillful workers.


In any case we also want to address the fact that if consumers are striving now for environmentally friendly ethic, they are also looking for products their recall worth spending money on, not only for the longevity but also for the quality. Building low-cost, consumers-appealing products is a strategy funded by unskilled advertising minds that believe in “quantity over quality” and do not even have minimal ideas of what they are building campaigns for. (well-known names decided to hide the poorest quality behind the perfect high-price mask).


In addition, when processes start evolving wrong and difficulties come to the surface, fabric designer & technicians, the “experts”, are eventually engaged, hired to solve the problem, and be sooner or later kicked in their back once the solution is found.


Uncomfortable questions?

High competence overwhelming companies which lead to business difficulties?

Threat to the internal balance of workers?


Investing in fabric specialist to propose a very good quality product is a process requiring effort, commitment, research, constancy, and luck, always bearing in mind that it is not easy or obvious. With their knowledge, tireless curiosity in innovations and research, they can improve the production phases, propose innovative processes implementing the new collections, bonding new and more suitable suppliers or collaborators and, last but not least, transfer abilities with little experienced workers in the sector. They are a 360° synergy.


Hiring beyond the fear, forward thinking, and just as accepting that their abilities might be wider that the company’s owners, is the best path. Textile is more complicated than what it appears like, embodying a substance that must be appreciated by all the human senses, just as a piece of poetry, far from an exact scientific base.


Again: you want a go pizza? Go to an Italian restaurant, you want good classical music? Go listen to the Opera, you want to progress in fitness? Rely on a competent PT, YOU WANRT TO PROGRESS IN FAHION? HIRE SOMEONE WHO CAN HELP!!


If you decide to use their services have respect for it, because if you can trust it can be THE REAL ADDED VALUE to your company and in general, to your life.


9 February 2021

Italian Craft Lab

It could only be born in Prato, as not only crucial textile, and industrial center, but also as place of transit for creators and designers looking for avant-garde textile types and solutions that draw from ancient traditions and skills. Stefano Biagini and Luigi Tanini, after textile studies and long professional experiences in the sector, decided to open their own consulting and design firm, offering a full service to all textile companies.


The union, therefore, not only makes strength, but creates new synergies and qualified services to share with the textile-fashion sector.


Italian Craft Lab exemplifies how combining the skills of two Prato design companies, Ten Agency, and Studio Azzero with their respective creative minds, Luigi Tanini and Stefano Biagini, could profit companies. Their technical experiences in textile design and fabric creation lead them to manage firms’ requests aiming to develop collections for men’s, women’s and children’s wear, clothing prototypes, furniture, and accessories, also sharing their network of contacts on the Italian and foreign markets.


Italian Craft Lab therefore provides customers with a full approach needed to achieve profitable results: creativity, technical assistance, support, and logistics. All strictly respecting Italian taste and style: the result of a combination of heritage and modernity, elegance, and performance.  Worth noticing is the great attention to the “green” world and sustainability: ICL offers a constant research for materials and solutions for sustainability also in packaging and prêt-à-porter.

4 February 2021

Italian Craft Lab

ITALIAN CRAF LAB was born in September 2020, from the union of two excellences of the Prato textile scene Stefano Biagini, owner of STUDIO AZZERO, and Luigi Tanini, owner of the TEN provide national and international customers with a 360° support in textile field: consultancy, design, survey logistics & textile service.


A highly specialized technical staff is ready to respond to every need of yours.


25 October 2019

Eco-sustainability: a matter of attention to detail to be totally green, you need a buying guide

Choosing to buy eco-sustainable garments is the first step towards transforming one’s lifestyle. Organic cotton, ethical fibers, tinctures made from herbs: all these are worth-considering details in this newfound environmental awareness, pursuing to develop a new sustainable mindset.


Rome was not built in a day, neither does sustainable-fashion.


The environmental emergency requires almost obsessive attention in the choice of products: knowing that the jacket is made of recycled nylon, that goose feather padding has not caused harm to animal welfare, or that the industrial production system has minimized CO2 emissions it is not enough.


Does our organic cotton shirt make us feel good with our souls?


Well, what about GOTS?
From cotton cultivation to wool farms, gradually up to the detail of the labelling, everything is under the observation of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the bible to sustainability in textile field. The latter is purposely created for those who want those who want to convert to green fashion, which ensures that the production cycle respects thoroughly both environmental and ethical parameters.


Certificates list to be green is extremely long and detailed, perhaps though, still some doubts are to be considered.
Taking as example the recycled nylon jacket:  arouses a motion of joy in letting us know that straws and plastic bottles that polluted the oceans have now become a warm outerwear garment. That said, there immediately comes back the cold wind, bringing doubts: is the padding certified by the Responsible Down Standard (RDS), which assures that no animal was harmed? Is all what worn under the jacket certified by the Global Recycle Standard (GRS)? Do our sweaters, t-shirts, pants and anything else, have a quantity of recycled material that has an environmental resonance in reducing the wastes?




ICEA: independent institute that contributes to the development of organic farming by controlling the production activity of Italian companies to guarantee ecological and ethical standards.  Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): a consortium that ensures animal welfare standards in wool production.

Fabrics, buttons, hinges and padding become a powerful tool for the green mindset.


Mobilitation to actual sustainability is hard, for sure.

The advantage lies in information flow, allowing conscious choices: If you have the will and the patience to look carefully, the fashion market offers a wide choice of products designed to avoid harming the environment. fabrics, buttons, hinges and padding are becoming powerfully enagged against pollution, the destruction of resources and the lack of attention and care towards nature.


Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturing sustainable standards
Many companies, in Italy and abroad, are implanting their production on this basis, trying to create a fertile ground for the birth and growth of a sustainable fashion. Among these, stand out the “Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturing Institute” (CCMI), controlling the production of cashmere and camel hair garments, dealing with maintaining high quality standards and avoiding animals’, territories and populations involved in production harming.

6 July 2018

Studio Azzero at Milano Unica

Milan 10, 11, 12 July

Milano Unica offers the best international visibility to the textile world in a highly qualified context in line with the quality of the products.

20 February 2018

Studio Azzero at Filo

Filo is the main international b2b fair focused on the excellence of yarns and fibers for orthogonal and circular weaving, for clothing and furniture.


6 November 2017

Studio Azzero at Münich Fabric Start 2017

Studio Azzero will attend the Münich Fabric Start from 5 to 9 September 2017.


Münich Fabric Start is the Fair for manufacturers of accessories, clothing & fashion pieces, where the latest news for the Autumn/Winter seasons are shown: clothing for Men, Women, Children, with natural and synthetic fibers, and so on.

16 September 2017

Studio Azzero at Première Vision Paris 2017

Studio Azzero will be present at Première Vision Paris, from 19 to 21 September 2017.


Twice a year, 740 weavers from 30 countries show their collections according to both the needs of the fashion market and of the clothing industry calendar. A wealth allowing companies to find products that match both their needs and a reasonable price range.